A Brief History of Cassoulet: The Holly Hill version
story by Donna Hecker
Historically speaking, Holly Hill Inn was already late to the Cassoulet scene when it began serving one in 2001, considering that the dish itself dates back to 1355 and the Hundred Years’ War, specifically the siege of Castelnaudary, France.
That was when the good citizens of Castelnaudary pooled their culinary resources to create a dish hearty enough to sustain themselves while they fought off the northern invaders. Having accomplished that goal, Cassoulet went on to become an enduring and much-loved tradition throughout Languedoc with both Toulouse and Carcassonne laying claim to it as well.
Our Cassoulet history began in 2001, the year Chris and Ouita Michel opened the doors of Holly Hill Inn. Their old friend (and food historian) Clay McClure was in the kitchen at the time and her research has informed our Cassoulet ever since.
While at the University of Kentucky King Library Press, Clay published the English translation of an Ode to Cassoulet, written in 1900 by the poet Franc-Nohain; here is a beautiful new print of it from her Marcona Press. “Unctuous and perfect, in Languedoc a royal feast, this is called a haricot cream or cassoulet” – Franc-Nohain.
In keeping with its heroic origins, Cassoulet is a dish, a dinner, a literary inspiration, an expression of an ancient culinary heritage, a celebration with friends. We always take a moment to wish a Joyeux Anniversaire to Prosper Montagné, author of the Larousse Gastronomique and one of the great French gastronomes; and schedule our Cassoulet on or around his November 14 birthday.
In 1929, to settle a long-running dispute over which cities could lay claim to Cassoulet, Montagné issued the following decree “God the Father is the cassoulet of Castelnaudary, God the Son that of Carcassonne, and the Holy Spirit that of Toulouse.”
Our Cassoulet reflects the entire Trinity, containing all three signature elements – duck, pork and lamb. And since we’re not under siege, unlike the good people of Castelnaudary, we can take our time sourcing the ingredients for our Cassoulet, and carefully planning its execution.
A few years back, Holly Hill Executive Chef Tyler McNabb created a Google doc that Chef Hannah Arvin still uses today. It lays out a timeline that begins with sourcing the main ingredients at least a month in advance, and scheduling deliveries (or pickups) two weeks out.
It looks something like this: Stone Cross Farm pork skins and pork butt, braising cuts of lamb from Rickett’s Farm and Forest, duck for confit from Maple Leaf in Northern Indiana, garlic yard sausage special-ordered from Avril-Bleh Meats in Cincinnati.
The week of Cassoulet, with everything in hand, the real work begins. Two dozen ducks to be broken down, cured in herbs and spices, slow-cooked for confit. Pork butts cut up and marinated. Lamb marinated. Pork skins blanched. Beans soaked. Stock made from all the trimmings. Two different batches of beans cooked, one for traditional Cassoulet and one for a meatless version. Pork ragout cooked. Lamb ragout cooked. Bread dried and ground into breadcrumbs. Sausages poached. And finally, the assembly begins!
The day before cooking, our Cassoulets are assembled in a motley assortment of pottery, stoneware, and ceramic casseroles and then tucked into the walk-in to rest overnight. Go to sleep little babies, Chef Tyler says.
Finally, the big night arrives – like all our Cassoulets, each year’s menu adheres to tradition. There will be oysters on the half shell on offer, following Julia Child’s advice that a Cassoulet should commence with oysters and bubbly. Naturellement, Chris will pour wines from the Languedoc. We’ll crack the crust and raise a glass and wish a Joyeux Anniversaire to Prosper Montagné. And tell each other Á Votre Santé for one more year!
Related Content
Chris on Wine
Did you know that Holly Hill Inn has received the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence every single year since opening in 2001? And that we're currently featured in an 11-page holiday spread in its November issue (the one with Padma Lakshmi on the cover?) Spoiler alert: we got more coverage.
While owner Chris Michel and GM Jackie Anthony were tasting Cassoulet wines, we jumped at the chance to ask a few questions about Holly Hill Inn's award-winning list.
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