beet carpaccio
w/strawberries, flowers + candied fennel seed
Reprinted with permission from Pulp: A Practical Guide to Cooking with Fruit by Abra Berens, © 2023. Published by Chronicle Books. Photographs © EE Berger.
There are little hacks that chefs use to create a sense of drama on the plate. Fiddly plating is one of them. Jewel-toned, monochro - matic ingredients is another. Edible flowers and microgreens is yet another. This dish has all three, setting the stage to awe over great strawberries. Should individually plating not be in the cards for your party, cut the beets into larger pieces and toss the whole thing together like a big salad and carry on with equal exuberance.
1½ lb [680 g] beets, equally small or medium is ideal
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 lemon (about 1.5 oz [45 ml]), zest and juice
1 orange (about 3 oz [90 ml]), zest and juice
¼ cup [60 ml] olive oil
1 lb [455 g] strawberries, hulls removed
¼ cup [50 g] Candied Fennel Seeds (see below)
Edible flowers
Preheat the oven to 375°F [190°C].
Wash the beets and place in a baking dish with ¼ cup [60 ml] of water. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and bake until tender, 20 to 45 minutes, depending on the size of the beet. When the beets are tender when pierced with a knife, remove from the oven and let sit, uncovered, until cool enough to handle.
With a kitchen or paper towel, rub the skins off of the beets. Using a mandolin or sharp knife, cut sharp knife, cut the beets into ¼ the beets into ¼ in [6 mm] thick rounds. Lay the mm] thick rounds. Lay the beets on individual plates overlapping a bit, like fish scales. Sprinkle the beets with salt and a couple grinds of black pepper.
In a medium bowl, combine the citrus juice and zest, olive oil, and a pinch of salt. Drizzle a couple of tablespoons over each plate of beets.
Slice the strawberries into halves or quarters depending on the size.
To serve, scatter the strawberries over the beets. Sprinkle the candied fennel seeds over the whole thing and garnish with edible flowers.
candied fennel seeds
The idea for these came when I couldn’t find the candied anise seed commonly served at Indian restaurants for dessert. While they lack the brightly colored candy coating, the flavor is there. Note: This ratio can be used for more simply candied nuts (without spices); just replace the volume of fennel seeds with the nut of your choosing.
MAKES 1/3 CUP [75 G]
2 Tbsp sugar
¼ cup [60 g] fennel seeds
¼ tsp salt
In a small frying pan over medium heat, combine the sugar and 2 Tbsp of water. Simmer until the mixture reduces and becomes syrupy. Add the fennel seeds. Stir continuously until the mixture crystalizes. Add the salt. Remove the pan from the heat to let cool. Store indefinitely tightly covered at room temperature.
Pulp: A Practical Guide to Cooking with Fruit by Abra Berens, © 2023. Published by Chronicle Books.
Photographs © EE Berger.
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