Chef Ouita Explores Gastronomy
story by Donna Hecker
On May 18, the International Society of Neurogastronomy (ISN) will hold its symposium in Lexington, Ky., culminating in a dinner at Fasig-TIpton prepared by Holly Hill founder Chef Ouita Michel and her culinary team. Registration is open to all.
Neurogastronomy – the science of how and what we eat – has captured the interest of professionals across a wide range of disciplines, including culinary arts; agriculture; anthropology; neuro- and behavioral sciences; biochemistry. But it also has relevance for anyone curious about the food we eat, our enjoyment of wine and spirits, or why it’s so difficult to provide nourishment to those who need it most.
Many of us have tried to provide delicious and nourishing meals to persons fighting cancer or other health issues. And watched in frustration as a loved one struggled to eat food we’d carefully prepared, or was reluctant to even try a favorite dish because their sense of taste was so compromised by otherwise life saving medication.
Holly Hill founder Chef Ouita Michel became involved with the International Society of Neurogastronomy (ISN) nearly ten years ago. Her mother had only recently passed away when Dr. Dan Han, Chief of the Neuropsychology Service’s Clinical Section at the University of Kentucky, called to see if she was interested in learning more about our sense of taste.
“Dr. Han wondered if chefs could help clinical practitioners use the bench science from the physiology of taste to improve the quality of life and the nutrition for patients with acute illnesses. Having just spent about a year navigating my Mom's appetite and sensory disorders due to chemotherapy, I was fascinated.”
At the ISN’s first symposium in 2016, Chef Ouita set up an array of sensory deprivation stations so that folks could understand how sight, smell, hearing and touch all impact our sense of taste and memory of flavor.
“I had the pleasure of presenting the bourbon tasting flavor wheel for those first participants and I spoke about my mother's experience as a patient; and mine as a chef care provider trying to do absolutely anything to make her food more palatable so that she might keep up her strength, live longer, seek more treatment and enjoy her daily life more.”
Chef Outa went on to meet other pioneers in the field; people like UK’s Dr. Timothy McClintock who studies the olfactory system and loves eating pumpkin pie all year long. And Dr. Gordon Shepherd of Yale who coined the term neurogastronomy and wrote the eponymous book. Or the sommelier Francoise Chartier, author of Taste Buds and Molecules: The Art and Science of Food, Wine, and Flavor and a one-time dinner guest at Holly Hill Inn.
“I have read Taste Buds and Molecules cover to cover multiple times – thinking about volatile molecules and how they go together, especially when it comes to pairing bourbon and foods together.”
A highlight of each symposium is a light-hearted cooking competition among a few of the chefs in attendance, with patients as judges who evaluate the dishes on mouth feel, taste, etc. Chef Ouita says, “This is one of my favorite parts – the interaction with patients, their joy at finding something that tastes good, and even more than that – knowing that some of our country’s most talented chefs and scientists are working on their behalf to find solutions to appetite and taste disorders related to illness and medication.”
“I can’t possibly articulate all I’ve learned so far but neurogastronomy has profoundly reshaped and impacted what I thought I knew about our sense of taste. I am so proud that this international organization and symposium started right here at the University of Kentucky.
“And as the symposium returns to UK this year, I want everyone to know that it’s open to all people, not just the medical and scientific communities. I highly recommend spending the day listening and learning how the science of food affects our lives. And then I hope you’ll join us for dinner and more adventures in taste. Bon Appetit!” Chef Ouita Michel
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Salad for Ouita
Pamela Sexton wrote a poem called “Salad for Ouita.” It’s an ode to salads, a lyrical recipe. Chef Ouita built a salad with her mother’s poem as a guide and the contents of Holly Hill’s refrigerator as an inspiration. Where will Pam’s poem take you; what will go in your salad bowl?
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