Distilling Change
story by Donna Hecker & photography by Talitha Schroeder
In 2020, a small group of local youth, calling themselves the For The People Coalition, organized a march that brought thousands to the Kentucky State Capitol in Frankfort. The date was June 5 and it would have been Breonna Taylor’s 27th birthday.
One of those young adults was Katima Smith-Willis. Since that fateful day at the Capitol, Katima’s social activism has expanded to voter education, Juneteenth celebrations, incarceration impacts and, most recently, healthcare access and maternal health.
But when she’s not standing behind a bullhorn, rallying the crowd in a rousing chant, Katima likes to relax with a pour of Kentucky’s native spirit. As the 26-year-old put it, she’s been “dabbling’ in the world of bourbon ever since landing her first “big girl” job at Frankfort’s Bourbon On Main the day after she turned 20.
Katima credits her bosses there with developing her bourbon appreciation and other life skills. “I wouldn’t be here today if it wasn’t for Bourbon On Main. I was in a really abusive relationship when I started there and they were so patient with me. Owners Kelly May and Taylor Marshall took on a ‘dad’ role. A third owner had been my teacher; having him continue to teach me outside of school really meant a lot.”
“When I started tasting bourbon, I just knew it made me happy”, Katima confided. “But then I got intrigued by the labels, and the art behind it, and how long it actually takes to make such a craft.” Weller Special Reserve is a favorite, followed by Woodford Reserve because it was the first bourbon she was introduced to. And she loves the barrel picks she was able to sample from time to time.
Lately Katima has discovered rye. “Rye is one of those things that intimidates people. But I think you start small just like with bourbon – proof-wise – and then build yourself up.” Meanwhile she’s waiting for some of her peers to join her in whiskey appreciation. “A lot of them are still into cocktails and other mixed drinks, but not technically the art of the spirit that goes into them.”
Katima usually takes her bourbon neat, depending on the proof. “I might add a chip of an ice cube. Or a big rock if I’m enjoying one with a really high proof, which opens it up but doesn’t dilute the bourbon too much.”
“There is no wrong way to drink bourbon. It’s all about who you’re around at the time and what the occasion is. The flavor profile changes every time you take a sip. I’ll nose the aroma first, of course, and then give that first sip a few minutes to dance on my palate. It’s funny how all your senses kind of tangle into drinking the bourbon itself: your nose, your mouth, even the way you hold the snifter.”
“It’s my joy to learn about bourbon when I’m in between fighting. The world needs a superhero but sometimes superheroes need one, too.”
She could have used a superhero when a close friend, whose postpartum pain was dismissed by her doctors, died shortly after childbirth. Katima downed a bottle that night, an act she has no intention of ever repeating. Then she redirected her anger to fight for improved maternal health care, a stance stiffened by her own experiences as a pregnant Black woman and new mother.
“Death is a hard thing but we celebrate life after. I think about my friend and the amazing life that she had and the six beautiful kids she created. It was a sad thing but it keeps me going; it keeps me fighting for maternal health. You know, we (Black women) have voices as well. We experience pain that people don’t think we do. So cheers to her.”
In addition to her work with the American Civil Liberties Union and other progressive organizations, Katima keeps a hand in the hospitality industry. As far as she’s concerned, the lines are pretty blurry between waiting tables and advocating for social justice.
“I’m trying to make a change and if I can make a change with your experience in a restaurant because you’re having a bad day or celebrating a new life, I’m going to do that. And if I can make a change when it comes to policy and progress in not only Kentucky but the United States, that’s what I’ll do. I’m going to continue to grow and to find a way to make a better world not just for myself but for my son.”
That would be Mylo, who just turned one year old. Katima and her husband Jordan bought Mylo a bottle of Blanton’s that they’re saving for his 21st, signed by his parents and grandparents and great-grandparents.
Katima Willis-Smith & son Mylo, photo courtesy of Katima
Katima has other plans, too. She’s taking online classes with Bluegrass Technical and Community College, and hopes to transfer soon to Kentucky State University, one of Kentucky’s two HBCUs, to further study human rights issues. She’ll continue to study bourbon, perhaps join the Kentucky Black Bourbon Guild.
“I see the world of bourbon evolving, especially within the Black community and with Black creators. Kentucky slaves helped shape the bourbon industry and they used their specialized skills at distilleries. I foresee what our ancestors were trying to do all along, which was to be master distillers.”
Marches, rallies, a feature in Vogue, legislative testimony – we’ll be watching to see where Katima’s journey takes her next. As we wrapped up our visit, we wondered if whiskey and activism had a future together.
Katima didn’t waste any time setting us straight. “I see a place where bourbon and social activism MASH together. Crafting and building a unique, mature bourbon takes time, just like change. Crafting and building a progressive community takes time. They both go hand in hand.”
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